Subsaharan Tourism grows 9.4% in 2006

World tourism grew by 4.1% in 2006 according to the UNWTO. What's the main driver of this growth? Emerging destinations, and specifically Africa. Yes, Africa.

Africa overall was the fastest growing region (nearly twice the rate of global growth), with 8.1% in 2006, after an already strong 2005. This star performance was led by Subsaharan Africa (+9.4%), while North Africa (+5.8%) also ended the year above average. Major destinations such as South Africa, Kenya and Morocco all continued to post excellent results.

Growth overall is expected to continue at 4.1% through 2020, and Africa is projected to have another banner 9% growth year.

These growth figures underscore the links between tourism and economic progress. As one of the most robust economic sectors, Tourism plays a key role in fighting against poverty, and therefore is a primary tool for sustainable development.

"By integrating sustainable tourism in the international development agenda, our sector can make a significant contribution to advance the Millennium Development Goals through a more moderate, solid and responsible type of growth. Three years ago world tourism began a historically new phase of growth, as it broke the barrier of 800 million international arrivals, growing more than 20% since then. Tourism continues to transform itself under pressure from its environment. We are now responsible for making this new phase of growth more economical in its use of energy and natural resources, more sustainable, and lastly, more in keeping with the spirit of solidarity", UNWTO Secretary General Francesco Frangialli said.

Subsaharan Tourism grows 9.4% in 2006

Cape Malay Cuisine

The New York Times travel section ran a piece today on Cape Malay Cuisine in Cape Town. They rightly noted that it has its origins in the creole slave communities from Asia (mostly SE Asia, India and Indonesia) and has been an overlooked 'working class' food in general.

Here in Cape Town, you'll find that boboties and bredies are common in the kitchens of both white tribes (Afrikaans- and English-speaking) and in both Muslim and non-Muslim coloured kitchens, and that koeksisters are favoured pastries for all kinds of people. Since there isn't much of a dining out culture among the working class coloured population, the "overlooking" of the cuisine was mainly by restaurateurs of other ethnic origins. Many local people of all stripes happily prepare it at home -- upscale, downscale, or however suits your taste, budget, occasion and interest.

I love exploring cultures and places through food. It's something that crosses linguistic and other barriers between people, and sharing food is a timeless way to honour the traveller and to show the dignity of a household, however humble it may be. In Cape Town, there are a few good places to try Cape Malay food that didn't make it onto the list at the NY Times (because they were focussing on it going upscale). Zorina's Cafe on Loop Street in the CBD is the classic, and Biesmillah in Bo Kaap is where the locals go. At the upscale end, the NY Times overlooked probably the best and biggest champion of Cape Malay cuisine, the venerable pink lady, the Mount Nelson Hotel and its Cape Colony restaurant. The Cape Malay Restaurant at Cellars-Hohenhort is also a well-seasoned veteran with a devoted following.

You can also learn to cook Cape Malay cuisine; Andulela's one-day course comes recommended to me.

[update February '08: read my posting on the Cape Malay Cooking Lessons I took - first hand account of a great experience!]

With the rise of the middle class and the shift in wealth in South Africa, this has meant an elevation of the cultures of that middle class, and in Cape Town that means coloured culture(s). In addition to Cape Malay cuisine, we're seeing an interest in Cape Jazz, in the Cape Minstrel musical traditions, and in preserving the complex slave history of coloured ancestors. Like great port cities of the world, there is a wonderful, powerful, distinctive and heady mix of cultures and pleasures to be discovered! Think of New Orleans -- Cajun and Creole, Jazz, Mardi Gras, history, mystery and a dash of hedonism (port cities take their R&R seriously!).

I expect to see a lot more in the international travel and cultural media about the rise of Africa's Coloured City.

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Cookbook recommendations:

• (SA via Kalahari.net)
  


• (SA via Kalahari.net)
  


• (US via Amazon.com) 


• (UK via Amazon.co.uk) 

Cape Malay Cuisine

Review: Addis In Cape Ethiopian restaurant

(Note: there is an update to this review - link to that provided at the end of this post)

Full disclosure: I love Ethiopian food.

I've frequented Ethiopian restaurants in Chicago, Washington DC, St Louis and New York City in the US, and in Windhoek in Namibia. I have Ethiopian friends and friends who have lived and worked in Ethiopia for decades, and I quiz them on their opinions, suggestions and secrets. I've asked them to smuggle quantities of berbere through customs to me. Yet, it's impossible to prepare decent Ethiopian food at home. Sigh.

For all the remarkable changes that have happened in Cape Town since 1994, one of the biggest culinary shortcomings has been a lack of quality African dining experiences in general, and -- for me -- Ethiopian in particular.

My long wait is over.

Addis in Cape is a wonderful restaurant with quality food, prepared and served in traditional ways by Ethiopian chefs (and some Ethiopian servers).

The injera bread is light and tangy, and the flavours of the various dishes are balanced and distinctive. The menu allows for half portions to be ordered, making it easy to have a fuller experience if you have only two people and want to sample more items. We had lentil, pea, and spinach dishes, with a spicy chicken dish as well as a very spicy cold tomato and chili dish. Our Ethiopian server, Daniel, steered us well through the options and made sound recommendations for our palates and for the combination of tastes and textures. One interesting addition to the menu is a prawn dish. This is certainly NOT traditional, but comes from the experience of the restaurant owners, who established their first restaurant in Dar es Salaam, Tanzania. For me, it didn't work. I may be too much a traditionalist, but the tastes don't suit seafood. However, there are a range of beef and chicken dishes, and many vegetarian choices that do work and work very well. Don't overlook the 'side dishes' at the bottom, as the spinach was probably the highlight of the entire experience!

Sadly, the coffee was only adequate, but it was properly served and is a nice experience if you've never had it before.

The winelist is reasonable in quality and price, but not exceptional. We tried the traditional honey wine, or Tej, as an after dinner drink, and found that we probably would have been better served to order that with dinner -- it's cheaper and the off-dry to semi-sweet character of it accompanies the food well. A finer wine could easily be overwhelmed by the spices and flavours on the plate, but I'd suggest you bring or ordering a nicer bottle to start with if you can't bring yourself to drink only adulterated plonk. If you are a wine fundi, then riesling or viogner would do well with the meal, as could some of the lovely roses on the market. Otherwise, an unwooded chardonnay, but avoid the grassy or guava character of sauvignon blanc and some chenins, as I think they'd clash badly with the spices.

Addis in Cape is convenient to the centre of Cape Town, on the corner of Church and Long Street, not 2 blocks from Greenmarket Square. And this is no hole in the wall establishment. Located in an old Victorian building with high ceilings, the restaurant covers 3 floors. The ground floor is practically unused, but is set up to be a coffee service area in the future. The first floor is the smoking section and bar, and the second floor is the main restaurant, which could easily seat 70 or 80 people, yet doesn't feel empty thanks to the internal walls and the layout. Contemporary Ethiopian panels of various sizes were the wall coverings and carved chairs and baskets were the seating setup -- charming and character-full without being chic or overdesigned.

Finally, the pricing is very reasonable given the location and quality of food. What a relief to find a new restaurant that isn't aiming for the luxe end of the market and delivers value for money. We left fully satisfied after our meal, Tej and coffee -- plus a bottle of wine -- for R180 each plus gratuity.

So by all means go! Here's a hearty endorsement for the many pleasures of Addis in Cape!

(NOTE: I created an update post a year after this initial review. Read the update here.)

Review: Addis In Cape Ethiopian restaurant

Cultural and community tours

Township Tours, as problematic as they may be, are popular because they are responding to a market demand (in a fundamentally flawed way, but responding nonetheless).

Yes, you can come to South Africa for the animals. But you can go on classic African safari in Kenya, Tanzania, Botswana, Zambia, Namibia, and Zimbabwe (though, for obvious reasons, Zim ain't so popular of late...) too. You can also get great wine in California, Australia, France, Chile, Spain, New Zealand, Italy, Morocco (yes, Morocco!) and many other places. You can also get "affordable luxury" in SE Asia, Central America, Croatia and elsewhere. Fabulous beach escapes abound in the world, as do deserts, mountains, etc., and typically much closer to home -- South Africa is a long way to come for most tourists.

So why do people come to South Africa in particular?

To connect with the cultures too. (Fact check: surveys show 80% of Germans, for example, choose to come to S Africa in particular because of the "opportunity to experience another culture".) Yes, animals, wilderness, beaches, affordable luxury, great city vibe, golf, wine PLUS all the rich variety and tradition of African culture.

This is why I'm blogging: to help connect this interest you probably have in experiencing African people and cultures with a distinctive, credible, safe, legitimate, fair and respectful way to have that experience.

There are many other cultural experiences to be had apart from "township tours", and I will be sharing those in posts to come. They are more interesting, preserve the dignity of all involved, and have none of the other negatives (see previous post).

But as township tours are the most widely known and most popular, and they aren't going to go away by griping about it, I figured it was the sensible place to start. So although I discourage you from taking one, if you are determined to take a township tour (for some reason) here are a few pointers for when you're considering your options:

1. Is the tour operator accredited by SATSA and if so, for how long? You can do a member search on their website to check. You don't have to choose one of the big tour companies just to feel safe. A SATSA member has been inspected, vetted, and accredited, and you will be in as good hands as you would be with a big corporate tour company.
   
2. Is the actual tour guide leading your tour from the township you're going to visit, or at least do they live there now? How long have they lived there? Make sure you're comfortable with the answer. Local insight is what you're paying for, not just a driver.
3. The big question: How does your tour benefit the local community you're visiting? Do you stop for lunch or dinner in the township? Are there opportunities to buy traditional crafts or other items? Is there an option for an overnight stay in a B&B? Do you have drinks in a shebeen? If you (or other members of your tour) won't be spending money in the township as part of your tour, then chances are the tour operator is creating resentment among the local people and you may not have the warm welcome you anticipate. Remember, the tour operator will often get commission from the place you stop for lunch or to buy your crafts and curios, so their incentive is to make more money by taking you to the expensive place with the fancy wine list -- outside the township. You personally don't have to spend lots of money -- or even any -- inside the township, but if your tour doesn't even give you the chance to support the locals, then you risk causing more harm than good.
4. If you have any doubts whatsoever, contact the local tourism office and ask them about the tour you're considering. They'll know the local companies, the well established operators, and certainly will know any troublemakers if there are any. Tourism is organized within the 9 provinces of the country and then by local municipality (national > provincial > local), so start with the provincial authority to find out which local tourism organization to contact. The list of provincial websites can be found here.
   
5. If you have any questions and are struggling to get them answered, you can contact me, and I'll do my best to help.
   

Cultural and community tours